By Mary Blume

Published: SATURDAY, JUNE 12, 1999

PARIS: By the 1920s, Montparnasse was so famous that one could, it was said, buy a direct ticket from Des Moines, Iowa, to the Café du Dome. The quarters ample hub was Kiki, the artists model and good-time girl who was, Ernest Hemingway wrote, "about as close as people get nowadays to being a Queen but that, of course, is very different from being a lady."

Hemingways words come from his preface to Kikis memoirs, written in 1929 when she was just 28. There is clearly something to be said for writing memoirs when young: along with Kikis, the liveliest evocation of the period is John Glasscos "Memoirs of Montparnasse," completed when he was 23 and thought, wrongly, that he was dying from tuberculosis. "The celebrated Kiki" was one of the first locals he met.

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